Day 4 (April 24th) : Vincent, Trucker, Barfly, and a missed one

(From the Left) Me, Gerardo, Michael, Omer, Wael, and Grace

Day 4 was for four movies. Due to the lack of sleep, I was in the worst condition, so I didn’t react well to “I Captured the Castle”. But I enjoyed Q & A just like others and I promised myself that I will check this movie again someday even if I can’t write anything about movies for a while. 
 

 Brunch meeting before it was pleasant. People we became familiar with in last three days came(yeah, Vincent, I see you), and, like Gerardo, I became an autograph hunter while constantly eating foods. My mistake was asking Takita for an autograph too early. He left too small space for Roger with his big signature. And I took several photos. Roger came in later and he sat on the sofa and almost everybody was to be received in audience by him. We were all friends here. And I spoilt my chance; I didn’t say much in front of him. I think I’m sort of a mirror person. Tell me first, so I can think about what to say.

Grace and Roger and..... (Photo courtesy of Grace Wang)

After I was disappointed with my body during “I Captured the Castle”, the documentary “Vincent: A Life in Color” came to me like an energizer. I heard about Vincent from Roger’s blog for the first time. I was expecting to see him on the bridges in Chicago. I met him at Cowboy Monkey for the first time. I saw and said hello to him every day of Ebertfest. And he frequently changed his clothes and always made some joke from people’s name(I was one of his victims, you know). And he gracefully did spin move a lot with these colorful suits.

   So, is there anything I haven’t learn about this fascinating man in the documentary? The bad news is, there is nothing new. The good news is, the movie still is a wonderful story of the life force who is almost blind. My eyesight is terribly poor, but that is nothing compared to Vincent’s condition. Because of glaucoma, one of his eyes is completely blind and the sight of the other eye is as small as key hole.

 Despite his condition, Vincent is a confident walker. On bridges, whenever he hears the sound of the tour boat, he spins and takes off and hurls around his jacket. He is an urban legend of Chicago now.  

(Fron the Left) Richard Roeper, Omer, Vincent, Jennifer Burns, and Unidentified Panelist

 Maybe he looks like an weirdo to you. And maybe we will never wholly understand him, let alone his view. Nevertheless, he has led an interesting life and Director Jennifer Burns lets us to know about his life through several interviews of  Vincent himself and people who know him. The result is optimistic portrait of a lovable, intelligent human being who does not much bother about his limit or how people think about him. And we became joyous when the season for Vincent returns to Chicago on the screen. Sadly, I was a little too early.

 During Q & A, Burns told us about the tight budget for her work(she depended on several credit card). Even with dashing Richard Roeper, Vicent stole the show again and Roeper exchanged the suit with him. I also did it the day before. I will check out Vincent’s site. By the way, his helper Barbara introduced me her daughter to me before the showing. She told me later that her daughter also had poor eyesight because of the same reason. She was in a little better condition, and she seemed to be so well-adjusted that I did not recognize it. I was surprised to know that later at the post-fest party.   

  The next movie was James Mottern’s “Trucker”, featuring Michelle Monaghan’s uncompromising performance which should have been Oscar-nominated in this year.  Despite being not as enthusiastic as Roger about this movie(I watched this movie twice in this January), I think this movie is surely deserved to be watched by more people.

  Diane(played by Monaghan) has been leading the life on her own without any problem. She earns her living as a trucker. She is a competent one. She has a house and she recently paid off her own rig. When she isn’t working, she usually hangs around her friend Runner(always-interesting Nathan Fillion). But the change comes in front of her house in one day. Her ex-husband is sick, his wife is busy, so Diane has to take care of her son Peter(Jimmy Bennett) whom she had abandoned a long time ago.

James Mottern and Michelle Monoghan (Photo courtesy of Grace Wang)

This is an uncompromising drama about two lonely, tough souls. We have a pretty much a good idea about the ending, but the movie transports its load in a route far different from what we expect. Diane and Peter never lost their edges while discovering the feeling between them. They have to accept each other, and then need each other. But they never turn into model mother and child; they are still more like a lioness and her wild cub. James Mottern captures the rhythm of daily life while occasionally emphasizing the wideness of Diane’s world. This is Monaghan’s showcase of her talent and, she and Mottern and panelists and audience discussed a lot about her character and how she handled it.

I found Barbet Schroeder’s “Barfly” more simple, straightforward than my thought based on the first viewing on TV in 2003. This time, it became more funnier and moving than before. Based on Charles Bukowski’s screenplay, “Barfly” tells about the endless cycles of two alcoholic characters(played by Mickie Rourke and Faye Danaway) and more. When they meet each other, it was love in the rosy sight and they continue their alcoholic life without trying to be sober at all.

(From the Left) Barbet Schroeder, two unidentified Panelists, and Movshovitz

It sounds depressing, but the movie finds the humor and the heart from this seedy world. There are distinctive supporting characters hanging around bars every day. They are more funny the more I think I about them. I was tired, but the movie is strangely optimistic in alcoholic way and it made feel good, just like any other good movies. I like the movie more than before. I think it’s time for changing my original three-star opinion.

   That was not the end of the day. We went to Betsy Hendrick’s party on her house on Haines Blvd. I met people and lost myself a bit with a cup of gin tonic among them, but I had to leave with others sooner than I thought. It was short, but Betsy provided a relaxing moment before my sleep and I was grateful for her hospitality.

 

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Day 3 (April 23th) : Encoffinement, Dizzy Vigor, and Synecdoche

 Delirium continued to reign on Day 3 and another “the lamb to the slaughter” situation started for us early in the morning. After saying goodbye to Michael  Philips at Breakfast room, I went into Pine Lounge on the 1st floor with my friends. Along with them, I was about to participate in panel discussion titled “The Global Web of Film Lovers”. Thanks to Roger’s blessing and Omer’s deft moderation, we went through well and 70 minutes was shorter than I thought. The video clip is available here, but I do not want to kill myself by watching it.   

 What’s the next? After brief lunch, Yojiro Takita’s “Departures” was shown and the response was amazing; I could clear hear audience’s reaction in the dark while deeply moved by the story again. The movie is delicate mixture of humor and drama with affectionate manner. The opening sequence sets the tone. Seriousness and embarrassment are so organically connected that we can’t help but laugh while respecting the situation of the characters.

 Cellist Daigo(Masahiro Motoki) and his wife(Ryoko Hirosue) move back to his hometown after his sudden unemployment. He is unwittingly employed at encoffinment company, and he has to clean and prepare bodies. He is reluctant, but he eventually finds himself as a very good professional in this business. We see several bodies. We see how people deal with the death of loved ones as the part of their life in various ways. And then, something happens, and the following sequences touched hearts of many audience. As the living, characters comes to accept the death as the part of the life just like eating food and so do we.

(From the Left) Michael, The Translator, Yojiro Takita, Grace, and Bordwell

 With cinematography beautifully capturing the change of seasons, lush music by Joe Hisaishi, and good performances by actors, “Departures” was an one of unexpected surprise to me early in last year. I had regretted about missing it in South Korea in 2008, but now I’m happy for having seen it in a big theater like Virginia. Even though the translator was needed, Q & A with Grace, Michael, the director Yojiro Takita was as entertaining as ever with nice catchphrase “I hate myself”. We used it a lot after that. I hate myself.

  What did I see from “A Man with the Movie Camera” with the Alloy Orchestra? Maybe it’s enough to say that I saw a fascinating cinematic experiment from a long time ago. Lots of images from the Soviet Union in the 1920’s flied on the screen with ferociousness fueled by the Alloy Orchestra. this is still dizzy even with our standard. People at that time were probably scared hell out of it and thought this was an insane movie.

(From the Left) Unidentified Panelist, Bordwell, Howie Movshovits, and two members and The Alloy Orchestra

 In the end, I saw the grandfather of all these flashy editing in modern movies. I marveled by its untainted vigor. I was blown away with my mouse hung open. Q & A with two members of the alloy Orchestra and Bordwell and Howie Movshovitz informed us a lot about the background behind the movie and, they also explained how they composed and played the music. They will probably play for “Metropolis” in next year. I hope they will take care of the volume problem. I had to stuff the tissue into my left ear as the buffer because the left speaker was too loud.

 Because “Synecdoche, New York” means especially special to Roger, I decided to sit near Roger along with Gerardo and Monica like the night before for “Apocalypse Now – Redux”. Some parts were clear to me and other parts were not so clear to me at first watching in South Korea in early 2009. But with the second watching, I needed some reorganization. Some of things I thought as clear as blue sky called for questions. Some of things I didn’t get it at first became more clear this time. And there were still other things I cannot explain well. Why did he constantly take care of his ex-wife house while distant from her?

Roger's Seat

 “Synecdoche, New York” is a depressing movie because it is about the life. Life is full of sadness and regrets and diseases. We try to control it like the director controls his play on the stage. We ultimately fail and become an instructed actor instead because of inevitable end. That’s a gloomy message, but Kauffman, in unconventionally moving way, reminds us that we’re not the only one who has to face that truth. And he intrigues us with a clever labyrinth of the life of one man, played by Philip Seymour Hoffman.

  Or is he just one man? The movie is full of character development, character exchange, and character transfiguration(The last part is perfectly embodied by Dianne Wiest). Kaden may be not so different from H.C.E. of “Finnegans Wake”, the book I will probably never understand. They say H.C.E. is Humphrey Chimpden Earwicker, but it is also “Here Comes Everybody”. The movie is truly synecdoche itself, where time and space and people co-exist while being twisted and overlapped.

(From the Left) Michael Barker, Nell Minow, two unidenfied Panelist, and Charile Kauffman

 At Q & A, Charlie Kauffman and others talked about the production and other things. Michael Barker, co-president of Sony Picture Classics that distributed it, was generous to me during mid-fest party later. He told me about new Woody Allen movie set to be released this year. As a long time fan of Woody Allen, I came to have some expectation for it.

  In case of mid-fest party, I lost my way mistaking other guy for Omer. Fortunately, I was rescued by Roger and Chaz. While waiting for Chaz, I had to spend some minutes with Millie on the back seats, and Roger on the front seat.

 It was a dark and chilly night with no light in the car….. I could not say anything because I waited for somebody to say something…. But Millie was quiet…. And Roger coule not, of course…. I could hear Roger moisturize his mouth…. and I hear his quiet breath…. what do I have to say?…. What time it is?…. Was that the sound of scribbling on the note?…. what will he say?…..  Finally Chaz saved me from this difficult situation and she drove me to the party place. Ma’am, I owed you a lot. I’m still immature about being with people.

 Kauffman was there. Vincent was there. And Wael Kairy from Cairo was there. What a surprise! He made it! Before Ebertfest, I had just casually watched the news about Icelandic volcano, and then it suddenly came to mind during pizza party that Wael would have to cross the Atlantic Ocean(In case of Ali, he came to US earlier). We all welcomed him and he had a meaningful conversation with Kauffman midst of noises. Meanwhile, some freelancer reporter approached me and I told her everything I could tell her. After that, I got out of the place and came back to Illini Union for sleep.

(From the Left) Carol Iwata, Omar, Grace, Tom Dark(bottom), Omer, Wael, and Me (Photo courtesy of Grace Wang)

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Day 2 (April 22th) : Saving myself, Recession, and non-CGI spectacles

 I was afraid of Day 2 because I would be on the stage as one of panelists for the first movie of that day, “Munyurangabo”, directed by Issac Chung, Korean-American director from Arkansas. The morning started very comfortably like the last meal before the execution. We met Roger and Chaz again in General Lounge on the 2nd floor of Illini Union, and we also had the chance to meet other people including Troylene Ladner, Carol, Randy Master, Michael Phillips, Vincent(he changed the clothe again… how many suits did he bring here?), and members of Ebert clubs. One of them, Sean, brought DVD of TV series “Firefly” for Roger, but Carol told me that Roger rarely watched DVDs brought by others with few exceptions. It’s like a lottery, I guess.

  The mood became more warm with Mr. and Mrs. Valero’s present to Roger. It was the illustration of young Roger and his father based on the photo and it was drawn by Mrs. Valero. In addition, a three-month-old baby conceived during Ebertfest in last year was greeted by many of us. Meanwhile, the local newspaper reporter approached us and I emphasized that I’m “definitely amateur”. I’m a still a child compared to others.

(From the Left) Gerardo, Roger holding the picture, Chaz, and Monica

 I wondered whether people thought like that during the discussion panel on “Munyurangabo”, which was simple but deeply moving film about two boys in Rwanda. Issac Chung, a Korean-American director, made this movie as the part of education for local students when he taught movies in Rwanda. It was shot in two weeks(one actor had to be replaced after 4 days) and some technical limitations can be glimpsed, but the movie has a quiet, meditative power that clearly proves Chung’s talent.
 
 With machete at the opening sequence, the tension is slowly built while we are getting to know about two boys, Sangwa(Eric Ndorunkundiye) and Ngabo(Jeff Rutagengwa). We don’t know the difference, but local people can tell it even if it does not come out of the mouth. When they drop by Sangwa’s home, Sangwa’s father asked his son about that later. Sangwa has to make a choice and so does Ngabo. The movie does not make a speech, but we clearly begin to see the painful past of this country through their story with natural, documentary-like depiction of rural area. And all about Rwanda is compressed into a sudden appearance of passionate poem near the end. It is the showstopper of the movie(I don’t know whether that word is appropriate for this quiet movie).      

(From the Left) Unidentified panelist, Issac Chung, Samuel Anderson, Jenny Lund, Omar, and Me

 Yesterday, I checked the website and Q & A clip for “Munyurangabo” was only 4:30 without any sound. Therefore, I could not confirm how bad I had been. I only made two remarks, and Issac Chung, co-producer and co-writer Samuel Anderson, co-producer Jenny Lund and Omar took the helm.  I have to admit that I was too passive. The catastrophe didn’t happen. We discussed about possible homosexual relationship between two boys(no, no, it’s more close to bromance). Issac said the men from Korean culture were shy of physical touching and I responded with body language and everyone laughed.
 
   Sweet ordeal was over thanks to others’ support, and we moved to the next movie, Michael Tolkin’s “The New Age”. It’s about a Yuppie couple, Peter and Katherine, who loses their job along with their social positions and tries to search for new haven through these new age stuffs. To outsiders like me, they are alien and distant materials I could not care much. Plus, main characters are unlikable and hallow.

 But in case of their situation, I understood it well just like other American audience. Having seen so many desperate SOSs from the buildings of Chicago, I knew well that real estate business was screwed thanks to these greedy banks. At one point, Katherine explained about the situation and everyone cheered and clapped. The exactly same thing is happening around US with bigger scale.

(From the Left) Jim Emerson, Unidentified Panelist, Michael Tolkin, and Elvis Mitchell

 Overall, it’s a little boring but engaging enough to be recommended. Peter Weller and Judy Davis has already played another hollow couple in David Cronenberg’s “Naked Lunch”, and their chemistry in this movie is, again, impeccable. Maybe Peter and Katherine are unlikeable, but they are witty and serious. They are open about their relationship. They are not suddenly mad about that even when they are in deep trouble. There are funny performances from Samuel L. Jackson and Patrick Bauchau, and people loved that.

Monica, Gerardo, and Emerson

 The Dinner place was Green Room of Spring Cultural Center, one block north of Virginia Theater. I met Jim Emerson(his tatoo on the right wrist was immediately linked to some tattoo removal ad in Ebertfest leaflet in my head) and had some talk with him about his website while walking to the building. During dinner, I briefly talked with Issac Chung as an immature critic and a gifted director. We both made our parents disappointed by getting interested in movies. 

Roger & Barbet Schroeder

Barbet Schroeder, the director of “Barfly”, luckily came across the Atlantic Ocean despite unfortunate volcano ash. And Charlie Kauffman was there, too. I’ll never forget Schroeder for giving me a wrong clue about the name of the movie he could not remember. I pointed out to him that it is “Basic Instinct”, not “Fatal Attraction”, that was made by the director who made that awful film about Las Vegas.

 Charlie Kauffman was far different from Charlie or Donald of “Adaptation”. He patiently listened to my thoughts about his masterpiece(“Synecdoche, New York) as well as the reactions from Korean reviewers when the movie was released in this January. Then we talked about the books by Joseph Heller and Patricia Highsmith and others. I tried to explain him how Beckett’s “Endgame” reminded me of “Synecdoche, New York”.

(From the Left) Ali, Phillips, Unidenfied Panelist, Bordwell

 As usual, the time went fast, and it was the time for “Apocalypse Now – Redux”. “Apocalypse Wow” can be a good title for this gigantic movie. I watched this version in 2001 at local theater before, I felt it was a little too long. We all agreed with that after watching it. We can live without those two main additional sequences. I think Coppola added legs to the snake on the great painting.

 Fortunately, the canvas is large enough to forgive that. And we know well that how excruciating it was for Coppola and his crews to make this masterpiece. In this ambitious movie, there are many striking sequences besides the one of the great sequences in the movie history. This time, the bridge sequence came to me the most closely. It embodies the title of the movie. It looks like a crazy carnival with lots of lights and smokes and explosions. Remember, the movie was made before the era of CGI.

 We were exhausted but enlivened by following Q & A with David Bordwell, Ali, and Michael Philips. Our night was ended with another visit to Stake ‘N Shake, and I was delighted to meet people younger me, who may be more passionate than us. I had an interesting discussion on “A Clockwork Orange” with a 15-year-boy named Jackson. I later found that he could drive a car. I still can’t drive a car.

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Day 1 (April 21th) : Steak ‘N Shake, Manic Depression, and Laughter

 The madness began in the afternoon on the next day. At first, it seemed to be easy when I woke up in the morning. I had a simple breakfast on the third floor, checked my e-mail, and learned Michael suggested the lunch at that famous Steak ‘N shake. I cut my hair(There is a barbershop on Green Street. I gave it a try but $19 was too much considering the result), bought some sportswear only with $10, and waited for others at the lobby. That was where I met Ali Arikan from Istanbul, Turkey. I heard from Carol a lot about his brutal rampage on Chicago restaurant business in previous week. You will believe in his conquest as much as you believe in Santa Claus. You will instinctively know he’s capable of that as soon as you see him. He’s the man of relentless metabolism; and also relentlessly smooth and charming talker. Like Jim Emerson said, you can sing about him like that; “Prince Ali, “….. wait, what was after that? That is the one of the reasons I cannot sing well.

 Around PM 1:00, We(Gerardo and Monica, Michael, Ali, and me) finally appreciated the family restaurant chain where Roger sang a long odd for it in his blog last year. We the juries found that Steak ‘N Shake is incredibly guilty for that. With just $10(including tip and tax), I was served with delicious double steakburger with bacon and cheese, a big glass of mint chocolate milkshake, and big, crisp onions rings. As a foreigner who had been abused with those small, tasteless ones by Burger King and other fast food chains in my country, this was sort of salvation. This supersize treat was still not healthy for you body, but you can make some exception with Steak ‘N Shake.

Roger And Chaz

 The passage of the time was accelerated more. Remaining time had been quickly evaporated and it was around PM 5:00, time for the Opening gala at President’s House on W. Florida St. I met homely Omer first, and then other far-flung foreign correspondents appeared before my eyes. Tom Dark, one of regular commenters in Roger’s blog, was platonically infatuated with Grace Wang. They would have talked for a long time if not for “Pink Floyd The Wall” at PM 7:30. Omar Moore, whose review for “Malcolm X” had been just posted on our website, was quite a rambunctious guy with a big camera(In case of photography, as in “Blow Up”, the size does matter). He was kind and likeable as much as any other foreign correspondents.

(From Left) Omar, Gerardo, Michael, David Bordwell, Me, and Omer

 After several opening speeches, we were introduced by Chaz one by one, and so were other well-known guests like Charlie Kauffman, Issac Chung, Michael Tolkin, the director of “The New Age”, and, of course, Vincent. He changed his clothes again and we would see he would be consistently colorful in next days.

 My brain was busy with names of people and what was said, my stomach was busy with finding a substitute dinner at that place, and my hand was busy with camera. The ceremony was quickly over and we moved to the Virginia theater, which would be the center of our collective dream for 5 days. 

 First movie was Alan Parker’s “Pink Floyd the Wall”, one of recent additions to Roger Ebert’s Great movies. I have seen it with pan-and-scan VHS once in 2000, so it was quite refreshing to watch it on the big screen of Virginia theater. The movie is virtually a long music video of manic depression, and you can’t help but be rivetted by its power from the mix of music and images. It constantly grabs us with memorable moments; grotesque animations including a violent struggle between two flowers(male and female), young students put into the meat grinder one by one in line, few drops of blood on the soapy water during shaving of all hair body by the protagonist named Pink(Bob Geldof). I told Michael Mirasol that “Across the Universe”, a Beatles music video movie filled with equally striking images plus lots of optimism, would make a good double feature show with this movie.

Ali Arikan, Tom Dark, and Christy Lemire

  Roy Andersson’s “You, the Living” is other good alternative. People in the movie are depressing, but we all found 50 vignettes in the movie absolutely hilarious. When I watched it first, I found this weird cross between Tati(“Playtime”) and Bunuel(“The Phantom of Liberty”) very funny. This time, I discovered something new. The theater was shaken with laughter from audience including us. Roger made a right choice; this is the movie that deserved to be seen by people as many as possible. Within 30 minutes, we all got out of the depression caused by Pink Floyd and pleasant Q & A with Michael Phillips, Elvis Mitchell, Gerardo, and Roger.   followed after the end credit. I’m not good at throwing questions, so I just sat and observe others like when I was at Steppenwolf theater. Audience discussed and asked about it. If you had looked at me closely, you would have been read my thought: “Hmmmm…. Why didn’t I think of that?” The show of that day was over, and we all had a good time.

(From the left) Roger, Gerardo, Unidenfied panelist, Elvis Mitchell and Micheal Phillips

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The Day Before the Ebertfest (April 20th)

 

Virgina Theater (Urbana-Champaign, IL)

Maybe I tried to do too much. I tried to enjoy everything from both Chicago and Ebertfest. That was sometimes too much to handle. After being on high by sheer energy of Chicago for two weeks, my brain was immediately challenged by another huge wave of the stimulation from Urbana-Champaign. It was comfortable, but Ebertfest was far busier than I had thought and, again, I was at a loss several times during the festival. Without the help of people I met during the festival, I could have wasted lots of these precious moments of my life. Again, I‘m deeply grateful for their generosity toward an outsider who did not have even a cell phone.

  On April the 20th, I woke up early for AM 7:11 Metra train. My original plan was going to Urbana-Champaign on Wednesday morning. However, after informed by Mrs. Ebert(Chaz) about the pizza party on Tuesday, I quickly changed my Amtrak ticket in previous week and notified Carol Iwata, Roger’s personal assistant, about the change in the schedule. The modification in my itinerary followed thanks to Mary Susan Britt. All that needed was not being late for Illini Train at AM 8:15 on my part, so it was very important not to miss AM 7:11 Metra train in Des Plaines.   

 After confirming that I did not overlook anything, I walked out the apartment building with the suitcase from the landlady(My suitcase was too big for this trip) on Tuesday morning. Metra train arrived at the station according to the timetable and I became less tense after getting on board.

The Stairs of Union Station

 I spent some free time at Union station while photographing its grandeur. Anyone familiar with Brian DePalma’s “The Untouchables” will recognize that stair when you pass into the front entrance of Union Station. However, there are two same stairs in Union building, and I wondered about which stair they recreated in the movie.

 Between these two stairs, there is the gateway to platforms for Amtrak and the atmosphere is turned into something more contemporary. I held out ticket and passport, went through without problem, and sat comfortable into the seat few minutes later. The train began to move, and I saw my last sight of Chicago in daylight through the window. And then vast, endless plain was unfolded before my eyes.

  I learned another thing about US; Amtrak is not so punctual. After arriving in Urbana-Champaign about 45 minutes late, Carol and Mary Susan took me to Illini Union. I was given a quiet, clean room with twin beds, and the gift basket and goodies followed. My head had no idea about how to handle all these luxuries because I had never been treated like that before. The Gift Basket said, “You’re a Star!”. Well, 15 minutes would be extended to 5 days.

  There were few hours left for pizza party at Cowboy Monkey, I decided to look around the University of Illinois during afternoon. Sometimes I came across Koreans during previous two weeks, but I could hear Korean far more often than before and I even found the ads in Korean on the board. On the last day of Ebertfest, one of the volunteers, a middle-aged man, told me he had learned Korean and said goodbye to me in Korean. Maybe I can move to this place if there is a right spot for me, but that’s too much idealistic imagination to me.

 While my far-flung correspondent fellow Michael Mirasol from Philippine had a hell of time at the campus thanks to his host, I just wandered alone around the campus for getting accustomed to the environment. With Green Street and Union Illini as the center, I tried to make the basic map of this area in my head step by step while looking for anything worthy of my camera. I saw churches, laboratory buildings, the houses for students, and the commercial area depended on them. And I spotted one plastic bag on the road. Inspired by that Ramin Bahrani’s short film, I volunteered to be its master, but some security guard became its master. 
 
 When the time for pizza party came, I met my host Blake Stubbs. We had not talked much with each other after that day. However, Blake and I had a nice conversation about Korean movies while he drove me to the meeting place. He is a big fan of Korean films, and I told him about recent Korean movies of this year that seem to show the end of our prime. He said he liked Park Chan-Wook’s movies, and I told him that Park Chan-Wook hated Roger’s negative review for “Dead Man”. In his review, he liked almost everything Roger hated. Blake kept talking and I was busy with responding to him. I loved it.

Roger and Chaz

 Many people had already come to Cowboy Monkey and pizzas were ready. Before 5 minutes were passed by, I came across Michael, and then met Gerardo Valero and his lovely wife Monica from Mexio City. This was the first time we had a real conversation and I became busy with responding while my topic were only Chicago and movies. And then, Roger(with Chaz and his nurse Milly as usual) came. The eyes of everyone were immediately focused on him and we were with him.

 Everything after that is in blurred state in my memory. I remember TV reporter came to this place and had a interview with him. I learned later that she was not a just local reporter but a major one. And Vincent P. Falk, that unforgettably colorful guy, stands out in my blurred memory. He made a sneak attack with a funny joke by saying “Seongyong can Sing!”. No, No, No, Vincent. I and Vincent got along well with each other. We had a good ride together back to Illini Union, and he constantly made that famous spin move whenever he got the chance and that brought me a smile everytime. That was just start and I would see him everyday.

(from the left) Vincent, Me, Michael, Chaz, Gerardo & Monica

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Two Weeks in Chicago: Part 2 (April 12th – April 19th)

 

“I’ll tell you where Roger lives…”

On Monday Morning, I took off the El Train at Fullerson Station(Red Line) and walked toward Peggy Notebaert Nature museum while constantly operating the camera. Later, I learned from Roger’s e-mail that I had passed by his house at that time. I have the photo featuring one of his neighbor’s dog, who seemed to be waiting for its master behind the front window.

  After enjoying those heavenly butterflies at Notebaert Museum(My friend Grace Wang should have been there for another ethereal entry on her blog), I saw the place behind the iron fence across W. Fullerton Ave. It was Alfred Caldwell Lily pool and Roger told me later that this is his favourite place. I came to know during re-visit on the next Monday that it had been closed for a while for preservation. But that did not stop me from taking some few shots. All I had to do was putting the camera through the iron fence…. and then click!

Alfred Caldwell Lily Pool

 Although Lincoln Park Conservatory is less showy than the one at Garfield Park, it has its own charm and soothing effect. And it was much more cheery than animals in the zoo nearby to me. I know, it was early morning, but the animals in the cages were a little depressing sights. Anyway, monkeys were cheerful as usual, and Gorilla family began another day. I just walked around the zoo in formal way and then visited another museum: Chicago Historical Society. I had a good time while informed about Chicago more than the El Train. And Moody Church across the street was another good sight.

 My second Tuesday in Chicago was wholly focused on Gold Coast. After taking pictures of Holy Name Cathedral and Medinah temple, I walked to 860-880 N. Lakeshore Dr. for appreciating Mies Van der Rohe’s Style. After Fourth Presbyterian Church, John Hancock Center, Archbishop Quigley, St. Benedict Flats, I proceeded to N. Astor St for observing beautiful houses of the rich and famous in the past. I wondered whether current recession also affected this place like any other places in Chicago, but I can’t remember seeing “For Sale” around that place.

860-880 N. Lakeshore Dr.

 International Museum of Surgical Science is next to the Polish embassy along N. Lakeshore Dr., which had many flowers on the front lawn for that recent tragedy. The Museum has many items associated with surgery from the past, but the most interesting is the ugliest. They have the collection of many stones from kidneys or gall bladders. After bored a little with old X-ray machines or surgical instruments, my eyes were lightened up just like any other students visiting there. Young or old, we never lose the interest on those freaky shows.

Museum of Contemporary Art

After encountering some good artworks inside Water Tower, I entered Museum of Contemporary Art for free. I could not find all of hidden artworks in the building, but the other works are interesting enough to appreciated for more than one minute. One of the most impressive works, created by New York Artist Alfredo Jaar, was just a bunch of tanks full of water in dark room and images of the Third world from several screens were reflected on the surface of the water in each tank. There was also interesting exhibition about Artist’s Studio, one of them was like the artistic version of “Paranormal Activity”. He just showed us nighttime at his studio with video camera. The message was clear; Nothing happens when he isn’t around, except the cat chasing the mouse. There is the artwork in the lobby which has been periodically changed by its creator. I took a picture of it for future comparison.

  The next stop was Navy Pier and my primary concern was Smith museum of Stained Glass Windows. Some of these stained glasses no longer belonged to their houses, but they are beautiful on their own with various styles. There were neat, ordered ones with Prairie style, and then there are decorative ones based on religious themes. Unlike lots of video games, these are indeed art. You can’t argue with that in front of masterful works by Louis Comfort Tiffany. What am I looking at, the painting or the window?

Smith museum of Stained Glass Windows

 The end of the journey, Ferris Wheel, was quite desolate in contrast. I took a ride and it was very windy and cold evening. But my photographer instinct prevailed over the weather, anyway. Click, Click, Click, Click…..

   With Chicago Cultural Center as the appetizer, I ate Art Institute of Chicago in full course on the next day. In case of the great hall of green and white marvel of Chicago Cultural Center, the emptiness of the space does not matter all. And that awesomely beautiful Tiffany stained glass dome are literally tour-de-force. In case of Art Institute of Chicago, I will give you only two advices. First, be careful of what you really want see, or you might get squirmed by tons of wonderful things to see. Second, if you will make a tour plan, be sure to make Contemporary Art after the 60’s section as the last stop. I still don’t know whether they are simply profound or simply profound, but they are easy to look around and your feet will be happy about that after long tour.

Tiffany stained glass dome of Chicago Cultural Center

  I was quite nervous about meeting Roger Ebert on Thursday. After tinkering with Wi-Fi at Harold Washington Library(I would be happy to die there), I walked to our meeting place, some building on E. Lake Street. My arrival time was around AM 11:45, and I anxiously turned the pages of Gene Siskel Center monthly leaflet while waiting for him at the entrance of the screening room.
 
  He finally appeared, followed by his nurse Milly, and then his energetic wife Chaz. I didn’t know what to do or what to say except being well-mannered and nice and muttering some words, but he gently led me to the screening room and we watched two movies in row. Thank God we had to hold our opinions about them among local critics. I was afraid we should discuss about them. Chaz told me later not to write about them before US release date and I agreed to that. Michael Phillips(the co-host of “At the Movies”) was also there and he looked less polished than on TV.

  After the screening was finished, Chaz introduced me to Steve Krause, the projectionist who would come to Ebertfest along with James Bond(No, his name is really Bond… James Bond). Like South Korea, the projection is sometimes horrible during screenings in US, especially in case of multiplex theaters. Maybe the screening room looked small, with Steve as your guy, you can watch the movie in the finest condition.
 
 Even after having a great time at IMAX theater of Navy Pier(we watched “Hubble 3D”), I was still at a loss. With Milly(thanks for Subway turkey sandwich!), I just silently and slowly followed Roger. Roger and I sat on the bench together, and I was still nervous. I even didn’t think of taking photos of us while concentrated on being polite. But Roger casually approached me with these notes and we talked about places I had been to in Chicago and I became more relaxed. We didn’t talk much, but he surely knew how to lead the conversation from an introverted person like me. 
 
 He was upset for a while about the screening of “Robin Hood”. He had wanted it as a surprise gift for me, but, alas, it was exclusive one for invited critics only. I quietly told him not to mind about that. I somehow knew that news was too good to be true. How could a nameless Korean, a petty amateur critic, watch it before its official screening at Cannes Film Festival?

 I should have told him he showed me far better thing: his house. My first impression was that I seemed to walk into a new art gallery waiting for the opening day. I smelt paint on the wall. I saw a big painting hung on the wall at the living room. I looked into the books stacked on the shelves. And I saw many photos. I recognized not only his family but also lots of people from them. He definitely remembers every one of them. Few minutes later, because I decided to change my train schedule, I was led to the basement, the workplace of Carol Iwata.

 Carol is Roger’s personal assistant who likes “The Devil Wears Prada” unlike Mr. and Mrs. Ebert. Her workplace is where my dream comes true; working hard while surrounded by lots of DVDs and books. That’s something a million of moviegoers will die for, or kill for. Carol belongs to that privileged class where the age of 55 means 35, and she helped me a lot at Marshall Field’s on Saturday. With a first-rate shopping expert, you don’t have to worry about the gifts for your parents. Quid pro quo, I gave some advice on recent Korean movies to her.

Gene Siskel Film Center

 Carol and I had a good time together with interesting movie “Home” at Gene Siskel film Center before dropping by Marshall Field’s. She also recommended me to go to Music Box Theater on N. Southport Ave. I visited there on Sunday, and had a tremendous time with 35 mm projection of “Ran”, and it was like watching the movie for the first time. The themes of the movie was more powerfully presented on the big screen. The organ play before the showings is a nice addition to this attractive theater with the interior of an antique style.

 After “Ran”, I stealthily hopped into screening room #2 for “A Prophet”. Even though I miss first 20-30 minutes, that was fine with me. That was my third watching, and my primary concern was audience reaction. In case of that bloody scene, many people cringed at the violence depicted on the screen and the lady in front of me even turned her head from it.

Music Box

 Let’s get back to Thursday evening. The theory of relativity was adamantly applied to Roger’s home just like any other places in the world. Soon he had to leave for “Robin Hood”. Fortunately, the screening would be held at AMC theater on E. Grand Ave., which I had been considering to go. After saying goodbye to Roger and Chaz at the elevator of AMC theater, I promptly went to watch “Hot Tub Time Machine”. A preposterous comedy movie, but laugh factor is quite high to be satisfied.

 The night life of Chicago had already begun when the movie was over, and I decided to go to Signature Lounge of John Hancock Center on sudden impulse. I was a bad customer who more cared about taking photos of Chicago at night than a glass of non-alcohol cocktail. I compensated for that misdemeanor later with expensive lunch during re-visit few days later(but I still could not stop my camera).

  While waiting for PM 11:30 Metra train at Ogilvie Station, I tried to have some talk with the other at the bar. But it was disaster. He was pretty much drunk and I had to listen to him while quietly sipping a bottle of Blue Moon. It was pretty much like losing virginity to some loser because I had not touched alcohol beside very few exceptions during 8 months. Did I really have to make an exception to the man like him?(but he seemed to be a nice Democrat guy, if he was sobered up)

At Night

 To make it worse, there was some small disaster associated with my bladder(damn beer!) while I tried to get into the apartment in Des Plaines. The levee was not broken down and it was not Katrina. Around 70% of fluid was safely led to Des Plaines Sewer system and I did more excellent hack of job than Brownie in removing the rest of them. I quickly removed soiled clothes and checked whether everything was all right beside that. I was relived that there was nothing to worry about…. except few suspicious drops on Roger’s yearbook with his autograph, the gift for Chong-Ah. I ended my day with operating washing machine and dryer machine while meditating on the comedy of embarrassment. I felt quite bad, but, as I predicted, I feel free to talk and laugh about that now. It becomes a hilarious ending for another day to be remembered in Chicago.
 

 During four days before Ebertfest mainly consisted of two things; Theater and Architecture tour. On Friday, after the bus tour including the visit to Robie House built by Frank Lloyd Wright and Crown Hall by Mies Van der Rohe, I watched two funny movies(“Date Night” and “Death at a Funeral”). Saturday morning provided the opportunity for Walking Tour by Chicago Architecture Foundation and Boat Tour by Shoreline in row. During my boat tour, there was no Vincent P. Falk on any bridge. Where was he? When I met him during the pizza party on the day before Ebertfest, I asked him and the answer was simple. It was cold and windy and it was before the tour season. My day was a sort of rain check day.

Steppenwolf Theater

 Sunday(April the 18th) evening was another special day. After shopping for my little brother(Nike and A & F), I took a taxi to Music Box theater. After watching two movies, I took the El train at Southport station and took off at North/Clybourn Station, and I arrived at Steppenwolf Theater on N. Halstead St. in time. It was my first time to watch Samuel Beckett’s play on the stage, and the play “Endgame” was beyond my expectation.
 William Peterson, with a little bit of John Malkovich’s mannerism(I could imagine Malkovich delivering the line “Can there be misery loftier than mine?”), was compelling as Hamm, and Ian Barford was an equal match as Clov. The time went fast with witty wordplays between two main characters accompanied by two minor characters, and we were all captivated by the powerful climax. It somehow resonated with “Synecdoche, New York”. If Charlie Kauffman had continued his story more, I think that huge set might have been crumbled into the set of Beckett’s play in the end: no escape but the bottom deep down there. Death is an inescapable truth in our life, regardless of whether we have led a good life or a bad one. That’s really depressing, but, with humor and insightful views on human nature, both works are moving in unconventional ways.

A Lunch at the Top

 After the lunch at Signature Lounge on April 19th, my last afternoon in Chicago was spent with another Chicago Architecture foundation walking tour. The theme of the tour was Modern Skyscrapers and I learned more about the 21th century buildings in Chicago. And dear Mies Van der Rohe was mentioned as frequently as Burnham in other architecture tours. One hour after the tour was finished, I went back to Des Plaines and began to prepare for Ebertfest and the departure on April 26th.

  In midst of all these places I went through, I sometimes observed people and the city itself. I took Metra with people going to work in the morning on weekdays and went back with these people agin in the evening. Baseball season commenced in the first week, so I could see many Cubs or Sox fans on the train during weekend. I was attentive to people having rush hour problem on Bus 20 on one rainy day or observed how bus drivers carefully managed wheelchair-bound people. I read Chicago Sun-Times(cheaper than Chicago Tribune, by the way) and I was curious about what’s going on violent areas of Chicago or recent troubles of Mayor Daley. And I witnessed the spring coming to this city and it was fascinating experience with those beautiful flowers.


 I know this sounds too conventional, but I have to say Chicago is a wonderful place to visit. How many cities in the world do we have where the public transportation makes you feel like floating around in a big, bright, and beautiful model? By the way, I found new favorite snack in US after chocolate raisin: Junior Mints.

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Two Weeks in Chicago: Part 1 (April 5th – April 11th)

Viewed From Grant Park

 It was like drinking another big shot after emptying lots of bottles. I had been walking around the streets of Chicago during two weeks before Ebertfest and it will be remembered as one of the grandest moments in my life along with Ebertfest. Chicago provided me a lot of things including these dazzling skyscrapers and I had tried to capture my experience with my digital camera. And then, I meet Roger Ebert and other kindest people of the world: His wife Chaz, his assistant Carol Iwata, Nate Kohn, dear Mary Susan Britt, who has been generous to me since having contacted me through e-mail in early March, and other wonderful people of Ebertfest and, above all, far-flung correspondents.

 
 But I think I have to talk about my two-week experience in Chicago first. On April 5th, I woke up in early morning at my home. My parents took me to the bus station by their car and I dozed for 3 hours in the airport bus to Inchon International Airport.

The Dinner on JAL950

 
  I arrived in the airport around AM 6:30 and the departure was easier than I thought. Thanks to electronic passport, I didn’t need to prepare tourist visa at all. Only mistake was shaving cream can, which was immediately confiscated by the Airport custom(I had to do shaving with soap instead for last three weeks). After two hours, I sat on economy class seat in the plane to Narita International Airport, where I transferred to the other plane to O’Hare International Airport.

  During these 16 hours of travel, I began to envy the lifestyle depicted in “Up in the Air”. Maybe it is hollow and lonely, but you will not care about that after enduring grueling hours of economy class travel. I wanted my luggages as small as possible, but, unfortunately, that was impossible. My mom had me to bring one box of Korean food(23kg) to her friend’s family. She also wanted me to deliver other goods, so my suitcase is near full and quite heavy even without the box.

  It was impossible for me to sleep in the plane. I even took drastic measures like alcohol(one glass of gin tonic), but I miserably failed. So, I had to do something else while being awake. After throughly checking my tour plan with Lonely Planet guidebook, I decided to watch “Up in the Air” despite my dislike of watching movies on the plane.
 

O'Hare International Airport

O’Hare International Airport. You leave at the morning, you pass through the night, and then you arrive at the same morning of the same day. Just before the arrival, the small screen on the back of the seat showed a distorted view of the outside. Because of the sunlight, it was just like looking Chicago and its neighbourhood right before massive nuclear blast.
 
 After making a phone call, I had to wait for the daughter of my mon’s friend, Chong-ah, about one hour at Terminal 5. She arrived with her daughter in kindergarten age by her car. I looked at a wide, alien world with the detachment caused by long-distance flight while sitting on the front seat next to her. I calmy responded to few questions from her and observed Des Plaines, peaceful suburban area. Day or night, Des Plaines is always a good resting place after dizzy urban activities.

 Their apartment building in question is on E. Washington Street, which is about 10 minutes of walking from the Metra station. I didn’t stayed in their home; I stayed in the other home in the other apartment building next to theirs. The owner is some Korean Grandmother who has a Polish American son-in-law. Her daughter’s family recently moved to other apartment in neighborhood, and she welcomed me with two cartoons of eggs, one cartoon of orange juice, and one load of bread in her refrigerator.

This is where I had been staying

She usually wakes up early in the morning and goes to her daughter’s home for taking care of her grandchildren(Both of their parents worked in Chicago). Thanks to her, I could take Metra train to Chicago as early as AM 6:56. She is sometimes annoying, but she is a nice old lady. I sensed she needed someone to live with and talk with.
 

 It was around lunchtime when I unpacked my luggages and prepared for the first day of the tour. Chong-Ah brought me to some Vietnamese Restaurant near the station, and we enjoyed delicious noodles. I quickly learned how to use the Metra trains. I acquired the timetable and bought 10-pass ticket, and the rest was easy. 

 I have to confess that I was nervous a lot while Willis Tower(formerly Sears Tower) was approaching in my view. Even though I had Lonely Planet in my leather bag, I thought about the worst situations and tried to be careful. However, it seems preparation is usually futile in real situation. I lost my ways in the Loop sometimes and was ripped off $2 by some beggar in front of Chicago Cultural Center on E. Washington St. 

The Metra Station in Des Plaines, IL

Nevertheless, the adaptation process immediately started and I began to enjoy the streets of Chicago. With architecture and sculpture tour course base on my guide book, I walked around a lot while taking lots of pictures. While I devoured the works of Burnham & Root, Alder & Sullivan, and other delicate buildings, I fell in love with that simplicity of Ludwig Mies Van der Lohe style shown in several buildings including Chicago Federal Center and Kluczynski Building.

 I was amused by funny artworks among modern buildings. Alexander Calder(a good friend of Mies Van der Lohe) Sculpture named Flamingo provides impressive contrast. Surrounded by three huge skyscrapers, Miro’s Chicago looks like a dwarf but it holds its own place well. It gave the chance for nice photos to amateur like me. In case of Picasso at Daley Plaza, I was lucky to capture several children having fun with it on my camera. I wished I could have joined them, but I’m 27, you know.

Picasso

   
 My tour continued and many buildings passed before my eyes. In next week, I joined in the walking tour for these buildings such as Rookery or Marquette building with other tourists and went inside of several buildings. People who built these buildings cared not only about exterior but also about interior(those days were before the era of air conditioning and electronic light). Thanks to excellent guides of Chicago Architecture tour guide, their painstaking efforts meld with their visions were clearly shown to us.

  I finished the tour of that day with Willis Tower(The observatory just gives you what you have expected, and that’s all). After going back to Des Plaines by Metra,  I underestimated how hard to walk around Chicago and it was the first one of many underestimations I made during this tour. I was exhausted and more exhausted after sorting out photos of the day. I did not have energy for writing, so my photos became the journal of my experience. I am not there in photos, but they can show how I saw and felt about Chicago, one of the most post-modern cities in the world where the old and the new get along with each other well.

Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower)

 The next day began with sore feet. I had forgot to buy sneakers the day before and I kept walking on shoes for a long time. This was the first day I got accustomed to CTA transportation system.

 I’m usually fond of public transportation system, especially the subway. Only thing required is knowing exactly where you wants to go. Chicago Bus system is far more intricate than the El Train system to understand, so I depended on improvisations in case of using CTA buses; Find the bus station with the map, and then quickly deduce which bus I should take, with a little help from th guide book. I had to be careful lest my identity as the tourist should be exposed. Chicago is a safe place, but, after having ripped off by the beggar in aggressive manner a day before, I became more cautious.

The Bus shot next to Dusable Museum

  When I went in DuSable Museum of African American History, there were high school kids visiting this place. Who were they? I was curious about it, but I couldn’t ask. I was too shy for that. I shot their school bus and I found one clue on the right side of the bus later. “Latino Express”.

 DuSable Museum is as respectable as it can be. I was a little sad to know that no photography is allowed. I focused on several works of ancient African Art while reminded again then Africa is really diverse continent. To me, Harold Washington exhibition is a little creepy despite while serving its educational purpose well. Probably because of my aversion to these taking mannequins, I think. They are as unnatural as CGI characters in Zemeski’s recent animations.

 After checking several places in the University of Chicago, I visited Smart Museum and I bought my first lunch in Chicago at its cafe: Salad and a bottle of spiced tea. Photography is limited, so I chose to photograph a funny artwork on the wall at Cafe. While looking around several interesting artworks by Jean Arp and Henry Moore, I was particularly amused by one Korean Calligraphy among museum’s collections. By the way, there is the special exhibition called “The Darker Side of Light” for lesser-known artworks from the 19th impressionism period. I recommend it to you if you’re living in Chicago. It will be continued until June 10th.

Smart Museum

 I went to Museum of Science and Industry by Bus 55. Here came another underestimation of mine. So many good things literally whirled before my eyes that my brain became numb sometimes, even though most exhibitions mainly target children with fresh minds. U-boat! Spacecraft! The production process of daily products! Huge city model! Avalanche! Tornado! And, this is my favourite, Human Body Slices(Did they inspire one sequence from “The Cell”?)! It was quite overwhelming. And I was destined to use that word more than often later for other places in Chicago. And my feet were screaming as usual. Okay, I’ve got to buy sneakers….. then I forgot again while trying to catch Metra train as early as possible. My dinner at Ogilvie Transportation Center was first trial on fast food chains in Chicago. It was burrito from Taco Bell.

Museum of Science and Technology

 Day 3, April 7th, was another long trial for my poor feet in shoes. I gave up finding entrance of Rosehill Cemetery after several trials and following frustrations, and walked down all the way through N. Clark street. After buying cherry pastry from that famous Swedish bakery, I walked down to Swedish-American Museum center, my first ethnic culture museum in Chicago. It is more like an Ikea museum at first, but there are many things worthwhile to see if you’re interested in the history of immigrants. Oh, and the staff are very nice. I tried to give them $5 instead of $3 because I didn’t possess a dollar bills, but she said it was okay not to pay. Thankfully, other worker brought changes and everybody was happy.

 At Graceland cemetery, the small steel shaft rivetting the band to my wristwatch was suddenly loosed off and got lost, so I had to put the watch in the pocket for three weeks. It seemed like the omen of bad luck, but Graceland is a very comfortable place for my feet. I found that waking on lawn rather then on pavement was more easy for them, and I could appreciate the tombstones of many famous Chicago people in relaxed mode. Among so many tombstones with classic designs for people like Palmer or Marshall, Mies Van der Rohe’s tombstone is as practical and simple as his buildings. 

The Tombstone of Ludwig Mies Ver der Rohe(top)

 After managing to find pretty Alta Vista Terrace and empty(except employees) Wrigley field, I took the El Train and left at North/Clybourn Station. After misadventure with Bus 72(I was on wrong side!), I finally came to Damen Station and quickly swept the area: St. Mary of Angels Church on N. Hermitage Ave., Flat Iron Building on N. Damen Ave. and W. North Ave., Wicker park, and Nelson Algren House nearby.

 I was in a hurry. I ran down N. Milwaukee Ave. instead of waiting for the bus, and I was soaked with sweat when I waited for someone to open the door of Polish Museum. They were busy with the preparation for the special exhibition to come, but I could look around the museum. The staff were cordial and gave me postcards of Polish Posters in the 30’s for free.

 I walked down N. Noble St. while observing high school activities nearby. With Bus 66 along W. Chicago Ave., I went to the final target of the day: Ukrainian Institute of Modern Art and two churches nearby. Mission of the day was accomplished before PM 5:00, but I failed to buy sneakers again. I went to Marshall Field’s but didn’t know what to do. At least, I took photos of gorgeous interior while wandering around.

A View From UIC

 The agony resumed on the next day with lots of walking. At UIC/Halsted station(Blue Line), Highway 290 and Willis Tower and other tall buildings of the loop makes an excellent sight for photography. But not University of Illinois at Chicago. Some buildings are ugly, and they are not even impressively ugly; they are just plain ugly. I have seen several sidewalks and roadworks in bad condition in Chicago, but the worst ones are more cheerful than these buildings of UIC. According to my friend Omer Mozaffar, it was more worse than that years ago. I can’t imagine how awful it was. It is amazing that students here are lively. Let’s say it is the another triumph of human spirit.

  Well, at least, UIC has some nice spots like Jane Addams-Hull House Museum or some modern building across S. Halsted St. After learning a lot about the accomplishments of Jane Addams and her colleagues from the museum, I immediately took Bus 8 and left before W. 18th St. I had expected to find galleries opened around noon, but they were mostly closed. While walking around the city, I could sense bad economical situation in US here and there from big, desperate rent signs here and there(“Rent It and You Will Own It Someday!”). The gallery areas seemed to be no exception. When I visited West Loop Galleries later in the afternoon or River North Galleries several days later, I experienced similar bareness and coldness. They didn’t care about me because I was not a potential customer.

  Nevertheless, Mexican Fine Arts of Museum is an invigorating place in this cold time. It has ancient artworks of Mexican cultures as well as the paintings of famous Mexican artists and American artists influenced by them. I came to be familiar with the Day of the Dead through Malcolm Lowry’s “Under the Volcano”, and I learned about it more from this exemplary museum.

Garfield Park Conservatory - Desert Room (Look Closer.....)

After dropping by Hellenic Museum & Cultural Center and Old St. Patrick Church across Highway 94, I had some time for visiting Garfield Park Conservatory. In less then one hour, I swiftly covered most of areas with my eyes and digital camera. Fern Room vividly creates prehistoric Chicago, and Desert house provides some wacky amusement.  Many young visitors have probably giggled over one of cactuses. All the staff have to do is putting the rubber on it.

  Finally, I bought sneakers at Marshall Field’s. There were two interesting incidents before and after that, respectively. First, I had a suspicious encounter with young African Americans at Conservatory-Central Park Dr. Station(Green line). And then, by the mistake with $20 and $10 bill, I lost $10 from Marshall Field’s. Moreover, on the next day, I had to give $10 bill to another beggar on N. Michigan Ave because I didn’t have $5 or $1 bills. I was simultaneously amused and perplexed by this series of misfortunes. Anyway, I became more careful about this $20-$10 problem and always kept the changes for these cup-holding people on the streets. But I had always been generous to street musicians. At least, they don’t beg; they just play, and my $1 was always ready for them.

The Bookstore on Printers Row

 With sneakers, everything became a lot more easier on Friday. After haunting photography exhibition by Beate Geissler and Oliver Sann showing devastated real estate business of US at Museum of Modern Photography, I had no trouble with walking around Printers Row, where I looked closely into some classy bookstore before business time. I went around Chinatown with mild level of interest as an Asian tourist(Chinese museum was temporarily closed due to a fire incident) and visited National Vietnam Veteran Museum.

 In case of Prairie Avenue Historic District nearby, I met a very memorable guide named Allen at John J. Glassner House. He has been fallen in love with this inwardly beautiful house. The house has warm, sunny interior hidden in plain surface of granites. He has actually met last member of the Glassners, and he amused us with interesting stories behind the house. He can answer anything and passionately talk about meticulous restoration process based on photos taken by Glassner’s Son. In case of Henly B. Clarke House, I was solely guided by kind lady whom I forgot to ask her name. Unlike Glassner house, this house is the recreation rather than the restoration in most cases, but the house is still compelling to look around. I asked her about the hygiene in the past. She kindly explained, and I still don’t want time machine even if it is an A-class hot tub. People tend to forget that the world before the 20th Century was not so clean compared to our time. 

John J Glassner House

  The rest of afternoon was spent at Millenium Park. After checking everything worthwhile to be on camera(again, there were many), I observed the film crew and actors working in front of the Bean for a long time. For one sequence, they tried several different approaches and actors and extras were patiently ready for the cue on the position of each own like “Truman Show”. I saw Jake Gyllenhaal and Michelle Monaghan(I saw her again in Ebertfest) while reading Roger’s reviews on Chicago Sun-Times on the bench. I occasionally shot them whenever they were closer, but the results were not satisfying at all. Shooting took more than an hour; I hope the movie will be far more interesting than what I observed on that sunny but windy day.
 You can’t enjoy everything of Museum Campus in one day. As soon as I walked into the main hall of Field Museum of Natural History, I automatically changed my schedule and spent whole Saturday afternoon in this gigantic encyclopedia. I met Sue, that famous Tyrannosaurus rex skeleton, and that was just the start. I luckily came across the tour guide and he showed me and other visitors which ones we had to appreciate in limited time. From him, I came to know that the meteorite is not covered by the insurance(an article in the contract is clear about that) and the best option is to call Field Museum.

Field Museum of Natural History

 
 Sunday was for Adler Planetarium and Shedd Aquarium next to Field Musuem. There were lots of photos taken outside as well as inside in my laptop. Wide and turquoise Michigan Lake is perfect match for never-boring Chicago skylines over there. And there are so many cool things inside these three buildings that I had to utter “Excuse me” or “Sorry” several times for my photographs.

A View from Adler Planetarium

 
 
 

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