Documentary film “The Last First: Winter K2”, which was released on Apple TV on last Friday, focuses on a bunch of mountaineers who attempted to make the first successful winter ascent of K2, the second-highest mountain on the Earth, in late 2020. Thanks to a heap of various high-definition photographs and video clips shot during that time, the documentary gives us a vivid and close glimpse into how things went quite wrong around the later stages of that very risky expedition, and that is more than enough for us to get chilled and alarmed during our viewing.
During the early part of the documentary, we get to know a bit about why the winter ascent of K2 has been quite dangerous and challenging for many years. Sure, many other high mountains in the Himalayas including Mountain Everest are very, very, very tough to climb in winter, but K2 was particularly notorious for its extremely risky aspects. In fact, this deadly mountain has more casualties than any other Himalayan mountains around its height, and the winter ascent of K2 seemed quite impossible as a series of daring attempts were disappointingly thwarted during last several decades.
In the end, the winter ascent of K2 became what can be regarded as the “Last First” for numerous ambitious mountaineers out there, and that was why an Icelander mountaineer named John Snorri went to K2 along with his two Pakistani companions, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and his son Sajid, in late 2020. Although he remains casual about this expedition of his, it is apparent to us that not only he but also his companions and wife are quite concerned to say the least. After all, anything can happen due to many tricky aspects of the mountain including its very unpredictable weather condition, and Snorri and his companions certainly knew that too well as experienced professionals.
However, things began to go wrong in a way quite unexpected even for them during next several weeks. When they set their base camp at the foot of the mountain, it seemed that they would be the only team to attempt the ascent during that time, and, what do you know, there came another expedition team to their surprise. This team was from Nepal and was incidentally led by Nirmal “Nims” Purja, a Nepali-British mountaineer who was the main subject of recent Netflix documentary film “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible” (2021). After making a record-breaking feat via climbing all 14 eight-thousanders within only six months and a few days in 2019 (This was later broken by in 2023 by Kristin Harila and Tenjen Sherpa, by the way), Purja was looking for another big goal to accomplish, and that was none other than the winter ascent of K2.
For a while, it just seemed to be a matter of competition between Snorri and Purja, but then the situation became a lot more complicated beyond their control. Not long after the arrival of Purja’s team, there also came several more teams including the one planned for a bunch of non-professional clients, and they were all eager to accomplish their common goal just like Snorri and Purja.
Needless to say, everyone at the base camp sensed the growing possibility of disaster, but none of them was not so willing to step forward first for pointing out how the situation could be much worse. After all, they were all very close to the chance of making a historical record to be remembered for a long time, and quitting was the last thing they wanted to do right now.
Things got indeed worse as time was running out for them day by day, and then there came what can be regarded as the violation of the mutual trust among them. Purja’s team decided to go further without notifying anyone else in advance, and this hurt Sadpara’s feelings a lot because he had regarded Purja as a close colleague and friend. In the end, Purja’s team succeeded in accomplishing the mission, but this certainly affected the overall mood among the other mountaineers at the spot.
Ironically, this actually made them all the more motivated about climbing onto the top of K2 as soon as possible, and it was probably one of many contributing factors in what inevitably occurred next. As too many people attempted to climb up along that very climbing route of K2, the chance for disaster got more increased, and this eventually led to the sudden unexpected death of one of the mountaineers. Unfortunately, this tragic incident did not deter many of them much, and it was consequently followed by several other equally devastating incidents later.
There were actually several cameramen associated with some of those expedition teams as well as a number of smartphones belonging to the expedition team members, and what was recorded at that time is alternatively awe-inspiring and terrifying. While we surely get a closer look on the perilous beauty of K2, we also observe a lot of how cold, hostile, and dangerous the weather on the mountain can possibly be to human body, and this feels all the more palpable to us as we listen to several interviewees who were there at that time.
Overall, “The Last First: Winter K2”, directed by Amir Bar-Lev, is an effective documentary which did a good job of conveying to us the inherent risks and dangers of high-altitude mountaineering. Although it could delve more into its fascinating main subject, it still engaged me with its visceral qualities, and that is enough for recommendation in my trivial opinion.
Sidenote: As some of you know, Purja and nine other climbers died in an avalanche on the Pakistani side of Broad Peak in this July. All I can say is that, at least, he died while doing what he was so passionate about.













































